What's the Goss on Soapmaking Oils?

In my mind, 'What's the Goss on Soapmaking Oils?' begs a couple of other questions. For instance, do the benefits of oils and butters remain after saponification? Which oil do you use and what are the benefits of each? Interesting questions that I will endeavour to answer in this post.

Lavender & Lace

Pretty much any oil can be used in soap making, which gives us a huge range. Depending upon your life bents or philosophy you might use any vegetable, nut, or animal-based oil to achieve a high-quality artisan soap.

Personally, I have chosen not to use Palm oil in any of my products. I know, I know, some palm oil is sourced sustainably without deforestation or human rights abuses, but I don't want to take the risk. This is purely my choice and not a judgment on anyone else who might use it.

Back to research evidence which shows that the benefit of oils in the finished soap is determined by the degree, distribution and composition of the saponified oils (fatty acids). Saturated fatty acids give light open lather and a solid, hard consistency, while unsaturated fatty acids provide moisturizing, conditioning, or skin nourishing properties.

This tidbit is for all you lovely vegans out there. The evidence also supports the use of vegetable oils over animal fats. Apparently, they produce a higher quality soap due to being higher in polyunsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants and polyphenols. Polyphenols are known to have potent antioxidant activities. Notably, the unsaponified fatty acids are a major contributor to the overall quality, performance and the shelf life of your soap - this can be both good and bad depending on the particular unsaponified oil.

I suppose the oils that you use also depends on your personal preference, but one thing I know is that the oils used all have their own pros and cons and I have placed a list at the end of this post (it does not contain every oil known to man) of the oils/butters generally used by soap makers. Obviously, there is a myriad of oils but only a few are typically used as the main ingredient in soap, while others are used in smaller amounts and are more likely added to pump up the overall luxury or skin benefit they provide.

As an artisan soap maker, I think the sensory characteristics of your soap are an important issue (the final expectations of quality and aesthetic you desire in your soap). People want a high-quality product that looks and smells great (even the non-scented soap smells wonderful). These characteristics will depend on the properties of each oil and may also include

• Fragrance

• Colour

• Lather

• Moisturizing Capability

• Hardness

• Skin Compatibility

• Chemical Stability during storage and use

The Fatty Acid Profile What's the Goss on Soapmaking Oils?

Within each oil used in soapmaking there are a number of fatty acid profiles that also contribute to the overall end product. These include

• Lauric - a saturated fatty acid that contributes hardness, cleansing, and big fluffy lather.

• Palmitic - a saturated fatty acid that contributes hardness and stable creamy lather.

• Stearic - is a saturated fatty acid that contributes hardness and stable lather.

• Oleic - is an unsaturated fatty acid that contributes to conditioning & moisturizing.

• Linoleic - is an unsaturated fatty acid that contributes to conditioning & moisturizing and the silkiness of the lather.

• Linolenic - is an unsaturated fatty acid that contributes to conditioning & moisturizing.

• Ricinoleic - is an unsaturated fatty acid that contributes to conditioning & moisturizing, soap slip, and the stability of lather.

• Myristic - is a saturated fatty acid that contributes hardness, cleansing, and fluffy lather.

The Oils

The oils below are the oils that I use in my soap recipe base. You can find other oils and their properties in the attached list below.

The soap properties of all the Oils indicated below are taken from LyeCalc

Olive Oil (Olea europaea L)

I chose this oil as the first in line because I use the greatest amount of this beautiful oil in all my soaps. (See my soap base recipe below)

As you can see in the table below, Olive oil used in creating soap has a high conditioning effect and has long been the 'go to' for its ultimate quality as a moisturizing soap. Used on its own, it produces a soft soap although given time (up to years) it will harden quite nicely. Olive Oil makes a beautiful Castile soap and is the original oil used in creating the famous Aleppo soap. The extra virgin Olive oil has a wonderful green hue which if used in high amounts can result in a green tinge to your soap batter. It contains essential fatty acids that benefit dry skin, including oleic acid (72%), palmitic acid (10.50%), linoleic acids (10%), and stearic acid (4%).

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
17	0	82	0	17	14.5

Coconut Oil (76°) (Cocos nucifera)

Coconut oil adds to the hardness and cleansing power of soap, also producing an excellent lather. Like Olive oil, Coconut oil can be used on its own, but be aware that its high cleansing properties can leave your skin feeling dry. It makes a beautiful white bar of soap, but I would recommend super fatting a little higher if it is the only oil used. It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 8%, Stearic = 3%, Palmitic = 9%, Linoleic = 2%, Myristic = 10%, Lauric = 48%

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
79	67	10	67	12	12

Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima)

Apart from being choc a block full of essential minerals, beta carotene, vitamins B5, B6, C E, K, D, protein, lecithin, and essential fatty acids, this is one of my favourite oils to use. It is skin nourishing and conditioning, creamy and contributes to the hardness of the soap. It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 58%, Stearic = 3%, Palmitic = 19.50%, Linoleic = 12%. The recommended amount to use in soap is around 5 - 20%

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
22	0	70	0	22	22.5

Hemp Oil (Cannabis sativa seed oil)

No, there is no tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) in this oil, so it will not get you high! It is super rich in Omegas 3 & 6 and is a beautiful skin loving oil, known for its wonderful moisturizing, eczema and rosacea reducing benefits. It has a gorgeous green hue similar to extra virgin Olive oil and if used in high amounts can impact the colour of your soap. It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 12%, Stearic = 2%, Palmitic = 6%, Linoleic = 57%, Linolenic = 21%. The recommended amount to use in soap is around 5 - 15%.

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
8	0	90	0	8	8

Sunflower Seed Oil (Helianthus annuus)

People may think that Sunflower oil is generally used in cooking. Not soap makers, we know it is a great addition to our concoctions for producing a beautiful soap. Sunflower oil can often be a little more costly, but has excellent benefits of skin moisturizing & conditioning, and helps in the soap creaminess factor. It is loaded with antioxidants, Vitamins A, B, D, E & K. It is high in essential fatty acids including Oleic = 16%, Stearic = 4%, Palmitic = 7%, Linoleic = 70%, Linoleic = 1%. The recommended amount to use in soap is around 10 - 20%.

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
11	0	87	0	11	11

Castor Oil (Ricinus communis)

There is more to this oil than mother dearest used to give as a blessed cure all.

This is not an oil you would use on its own to make soap, as it would end up a pile of mush in the shower. There is no real contribution to hardness, cleansing or longevity. However, as you can see in the table below, it is excellent as an addition to your soap to bring super conditioning, bubbles and creaminess. Castor oil is a beautiful lubricating oil and wonderful when used in products for skin and hair and would be ideal as an essential additive in shampoo bars, lip balms, facial oils, hair or beard oil (see my post). It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 3.5%, Linoleic = 3.5%, Ricinoleic = 90%. Use 3 to 7% in soap and up to 15% in shampoo bars.

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
0	0	98	90	90	0

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao)

I use this deliciously scented butter oil in all my soaps for its ability to contribute to the overall luxury and hardness of the bar. Cocoa butter is high in vitamins E & K and is a natural collagen booster with the ability to also calm skin irritations. It is also high in non-saponifiable content and conditions beautifully, feeling wonderfully creamy on the skin. It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 35%, Stearic = 33%, Palmitic = 27.50%, Linoleic = 3%. The recommended amount to use in soap is around 5 - a maximum 20%.

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
61	0	38	0	61	60.5

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii)

Shea butter is widely used in cosmetics such as body butters, lip balms and hair products (a perfect option for shampoo bars) and is a lovely addition to soap. It has excellent moisturizing, conditioning and skin soothing properties as well as vitamins A & K. It contains essential fatty acids including Oleic = 47.5%, Stearic = 40%, Palmitic = 5%, Linoleic = 5.5%.

The recommended amount to use in soap is around 5 - 20%.

Hardness	Cleansing	Condition	Bubbly	Creamy	Longevity
45	0	54	0	45	45

I hope you have found this an interesting post - feel free to share it with your soaping friends, ask questions or leave a comment.

The recipe below fits the size of a single soap mold.

Popular Oils and Soapmaking Properties

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Download PDF • 389KB

Single Mold Soap Base Recipe

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Download PDF • 217KB